There’s a particular kind of quiet that only exists in winter up north — the snow muffles everything, the light stays low and pastel, and even busy places feel a little more patient. Me, Camilla and Daniel went to Norway and Sweden for a ski trip that was equal parts climbing mountains, steep turns, driving through mountain valleys, fjords and forests, slow ferry rides, and the best kind of tired: the one that comes from being outside all day.

Our first ski trip this winter of 2026 was to the Italian Alps in Cervinia just after new year. But that was pure resort skiing using ski lifts only. We had already planned to do also a free riding ski trip this winter as well, and ended up doing this trip to Norway and Sweden by car during the Easter holidays with some extended days to it. 10 travel days in total. The first destination was going to be Narvik in Northern Norway, then Kittelfjäll in Swedish Lappland, and finally Åre, the biggest ski resort in Scandinavia. For Narvik we had reserved a mountain guide for 3 days of ski touring with a group of 7 total.

We did the trip with my car, Opel Astra Sports Tourer, and utilized also train and ferry connections. In Finland there are overnight car trains, which allow you to load your car to a train in Helsinki. Then the train takes you to 1000 km north, while you sleep and next morning you can drive refreshed to your destination in far far north. On the way back we took the overnight Silja Line car ferry from Stockholm back to Helsinki. Still, we did drive a total of 2200 km. For accommodation I had reserved AirBnB apartments in Narvik and Åre and for Kittelfjäll “vandrarhem” hostel room. We planned to mainly make our own meals and not eat at restaurants.

The planny plan

Date (d.m.Y)	weekday	events
1.4.2026	Wed	19:10 loading of car to train in Helsinki 20:31 night train 263 to Kolari departs
2.4.2026	Thu	10:55 arrival to Kolari drive to Narvik 390 km, 5 h lunch and shopping at Kiiruna 18:00 arrive to Narvikissa night at Narvik (1)
3.4.2026	Fri	1. day skiing at Narvik night at Narvik (2)
4.4.2026	Sat	2. day skiing at Narvik night at Narvik (3)
5.4.2026	Sun	3. day skiing at Narvik night at Narvik (4)
6.4.2026	Mon	09:00 drive to Kittefjäll  drive via road E6 on Norwegian side 651 km, 9h23min 14:00 lunch at Fauske 20:00 Kittelfjäll night at Kittefjäll (1)
7.4.2026	Tue	4. day skiing at Kittefjäll night at Kittelfjäll (2)
8.4.2026	Web	5. day skiing at Kittelfjäll drive to Åre, road E45, 420 km, 5h40min night at Åre (1)
9.4.2026	Thu	6. day skiing at Åre night at Åre (2)
10.4.2026	Fri	7. day skiing at Åre night at Åre (3)
11.4.2026	Sat	07:00 drive to Stockholm,  611 km, road E4 about 8h 15:00 Stockholm, load car to ferry 16:45 Silja Symphony from Stockholm to Helsinki
12.4.2026	Sun	10:30 Helsinki

Reservations before trip

The car train ticket from Helsinki to Kolari was bought well in advance from VR already in December 2025 as this is a very popular time to travel. Car transport in train with 3 passengers and an overnight cabin was 558 EUR.

We also reserved the 3 day guided mountain tours in Narvik well in advance from  https://www.vuoristoretket.fi/. It was 500 EUR per person.

The ferry ticket on M/S SILJA SYMPHONY for car transport, 3 persons in class-A sea view cabin was 209 EUR.

The AirBnB accommodations were also reserved and paid in advance, apartment in Narvik for 4 nights was 586 EUR, Åre 3 nights 575 EUR. Kittelfjäll accommodation was reserved via booking.com, but paid on site, 2 nights 330 EUR.

1 April 2026: Start from Helsinki

Spring was already far in Helsinki, all snow had melted away and even the ice cover on the Baltic Sea was almost gone. We also learned that in most of Scandinavia end of March had been unusually warm, there was less snow than last winter.

We had packed the car already the day before, mountain touring ski gear for 3, bags of winter clothing, backpacks, and initial food supply for AirBnB. Camilla had planned our meals and had ordered a box of food supplies which I piucked up and packed to the car.

Car was fueled up and still had winter tires on. This car has a range of almost 1000 km.

I did a full day of working remotely. Then after 18:00 Daniel came to my house and we drove to Pasila car train station to load the car to train. Camilla would hop on the train at Central Railway station already as she lives in the city center. Loading the car was quick, and so we had plenty of time to have a dinner at Pasila station which is connected to the giant Tripla Mall. We had giant hamburgers at Fredde’s.

Train left in schedule at 20:31. We had our own cabin with 3 bunks. Had some beers at the restaurant car, then went to sleep early.

2 April 2026

The train arrived almost in schedule to Kolari at 11 AM, 1000 km north from Helsinki. There was still a lot of snow, but the roads were clear of snow and ice. It was a sunny day with blue skies.

Unloaded the car from train, and then started the drive towards Narvik 390 km away. It was an easy drive with almost no traffic to Kiruna where we stopped for a lunch, bought fresh food from Stora Coop and beers from Systembolaget and refueled the car. In Norway all shops are closed during Easter, so this was the last chance to buy fresh food. In Sweden you can buy alcohol, like beer, only from the state liquor store, the Systembolaget.

The Kiruna mines are among the largest and most important iron ore mines in the world, located in northern Sweden. The iron ore extracted from Kiruna is primarily transported by rail to Narvik, Norway, because Narvik’s ice-free port allows for year-round shipping of the valuable resource. The mines dominate the landscape of the Kiruna town.

After the break, we continued the last stretch over the mountains between Sweden and Norway on route E10. In bad weather the crossing over the mountains can be a challenge, but now it was the perfect weather, and the road was clear of snow and ice all the way.

We arrived at 6 PM as planned to Narvik. The AirBnB apartment was in the city center, on the main street Kongensgate (the Kings’s street). The keys were in lock box as expected and we found the apartment was as described. Two bedrooms, large living room, fully equipped kitchen, bathroom. Views over the harbour on front and the mountains at the back. We unloaded our baggage, made a dinner, watched a film, and then went to sleep early.

3 April 2026, Narvik day 1

Our guide Petter had sent a message that we should meet at Thon hotel parking lot at 9 AM.

Our guide was Petter Reuter. He is UIAGM/IFMGA certified mountain guide with two decades of professional experience in the Alps, Northern Sweden, Norway and Greenland.

DISCLAIMER and WARNING. The touring described hereon was done with a professional local mountain guide. You should not attempt to follow the same routes without a professional guide.

Our group members were: me, Camilla & Daniel, Roosa & Matias, Tommi & Tero, all from Finland. Roosa was the only one riding on a (split) snowboard, all others had touring skis. With this group we would be touring for 3 days.

The plan of the day was to take the Narvikfjellet gondola up, then skin up to Linken peak, from there we would ski down the northern face. Skin up again on a ridge, ski down to Pumpvatnet lake, where there is a small cabin and a trail back to our parking lot.

Across the road was the T-bar lift that we needed to get to the gondola base station. First we did a quick checking of the avalanche beacons. Then Petter arranged for us a ride on the T-bar. At the gondola station we bought single ride tickets up, they were 22 EUR each. The gondola is quite new and takes you to 660 m. From there, there would be the brand new chair lift up to Linken peak at 1003 m. Unfortunately the new chair lift was not yet ready for operation and they had already uncommissioned the old lift. The new lift was scheduled to open this season, but that plan had failed and it is due to open next winter. So, the only way to get up to Linken peak is skinning up the cat trail, which is 340 meters vertical.

We started skiing at 12:00 and it was snowing a bit, visibility was poor and was getting worse at higher elevation, also wind was picking up. We reached the Linken peak at 13:20, so it was only a little over hour of skinning up. At the peak the visibility was quite poor, less than 100 m. Took off the skins and started the descent down along the north face to 600 m. At the very top the snow was wind packed and icy but at lower elevation got softer and was decent shallow powder. The decent ended at small basin where Traldvikselva tributaries merge. From there we put on the skins again and started ascent to the ridge on east side. We skinned 240 m vertical up to 840 m. Then skied down to the other side down to 650 m where the forest of mountain birches start. From there it was flatter skiing between the trees until the terrain became totally flat and we had to put on skins to reach the cabin next to Pumpvatnet lake at 330 m at 15:40.

Now the sky had cleared and it was sunny and warm. We had our packed lunches. The it was time to head back to town. There is a popular hiking trail going back, which is normally snow covered all the way during winter, but now it had been so warm that the snow had melted a lot and final parts of the trail no longer had snow cover, so we had to walk a few kilometres. It was 18:00 when we finally reached the parking lot and had a final briefing. Then drove to our apartment for shower and dinner.

4 April 2026, Narvik day 2

Petter had sent us coordinates for the starting place of the days expedition. We were to meet at 10:00 next to a small Nervatnet lake at the foot of the Skjomtinden mountain south from Narvik. When we arrived, there were other groups going for the same place and one group already coming down.

All the members of ourgroup had arrived promptly so we started to gear up. The starting place was at 200 m and there would normally be snow, but due to recent warm weather the snow had mostly melted at this elevation, although the lake still appeared to be frozen. We started at 10:30, and we had to walk part of the way through forest path by foot until we got a bit higher where the snow cover finally started. Then skinned up through the forest first, then reached the tree line at 550 m at 13:00 and had a short drinking break. The snow was a bit hard to skin as for some in the group it was sticking to the skins and needed to be cleared away. My Pomoca Pro 2.0 skins were working pretty good though. It was a bit cloudy day but not much wind at lower elevations. But when we reached a narrow ravine at 700 m, then wind picked up and our guide decided that there was no point going further. We stopped at 750 m at 14:00, after two and a half hours of climbing 550 m vertical.

Then skins off and skied down the north face. At higher it was hard wind packed but got softer and deeper gradually. At 500 m reached the tree line and skied through the forest. The last 100 m of vertical the snow cover was very thin and spotty, but we did manage to get on skis all the way to the frozen swamp where we had a lunch break at 14:30. After the break walked on foot back to the cars and reached them at 15:30. Then final briefing and drove back to the apartment.

It was really handy to have a washer and dryer at the apartment as obviously climbing mountains does produce a lot of sweat and being able to wash and dry clothes was nice. Sauna would have been nice too, but that we didn’t have.

5 April 2026, Narvik day 3

The last skiing day in Narvik, next morning we would do the long drive to Kittelfjäll. Petter had planned a tour for the late afternoon. We were meeting at top of the gondola station at 14:00. So then there was time to do some resort skiing before that. I had taken my carving skis with me and was going to ski with those first, then swap to mountaineering skis for the touring.

We drove to the gondola parking lot in the morning and bought day passes. Narvikfjellet day pass costs 545 NOK = 50 EUR. They are using the Axxess system. The runs were still in a very good condition and the runs are very nice for carving. The run from gondola is 537 vertical meters, 2.04 km, maximum slope 28 degrees. Then there is the run next to the two consecutive  t-bars, that is 373 vertical meter, 1.3 km, but steeper profile. There were very few people, so no queues anywhere and plenty of space. We had a picnic lunch before getting the touring gear and taking the last gondola ascent up to meet the group.

Now Petters wife was joining us to this tour. We start after 14:00 btu unlike on the first day, now it was clear sky, sun was shining on the blue sky, you could see the deep blue fjord below, and the snowcapped surrounding mountains at all directions.

After two hours of skinning we reached the Tredjetoppen peak at 17:30, which on the map is 1272 m, but my GPS was showing 1304 m. Sun was still high in the sky as we were so far up North, well above the arctic circle. We had a short break and did the “Fjäll Hej” greeting to the mountain. Then skins off and finally got to ski down at 17:50, now the south-west slope. Sun had softened the snow, and no one had skied down this route recently, so we got to make fresh tracks. On some parts it was nicely deep. On steeper segments we skied down one by one with 20 second intervals just as a security measure in case of avalanches, but there were none. We skied down to 800 m and stopped at 18:06. So we got roughly 500 meters of vertical decent done in 16 minutes.

From there we put skins on and climbed over a ridge to 940 m, that took us 50 minutes. Then skiing downwards mostly traversing until we reached the ski area. We had go through construction area, where there were lots of shar rocks not covered by snow, so we had to take skis off and walk part of the way. Then when we got to the gondola run around 19:00, the snow cats were already grooming the runs as the area was closed. We got back to the parking lot at 19:48. We had done 10.8 km distance. It was a great day and perfect ending to the Navik part of our trip. One last briefing and farewell to the group and our guide.

Back at the apartment we made one last dinner, washed laundry and packed the bags.

6 April 2026, drive to Kittelfjäll

Wake up and breakfast at 8, then load and pack the car. We managed to get started at 9 as planned. Refueled the car before staring the long drive to Kittelfjäll. We drove there mostly on the Norwegian side on route E6, passing many long tunnels and bridges. There was a long ferry crossing from Skarberget to Bognes. The weather was sunny and warm, scenery along the route amazing. In Norway you must pay toll for most bridges, tunnels and ferries. The toll collection is automatic and based on license plate recognition. For foreign cars they send you the bill later to your home address.

We reached Fauske at 15:40. Had a lunch at a small Thai restaurant by the harbor. There was also a supermarket, where we managed to buy some supplies. However, as it was Easter holiday in Norway, the supermarkets cannot legally be “fully” open, instead they have a small kiosk with limited selection. In Finland and Sweden there are no longer such annoying limitations and shops my be open 24/7 if they wish.

From Fauske the drive continues to Mo i Rana, from there turning towards Sweden on route E12. Between this E12 and the E10 there are no major roads connecting Sweden and Norway. The E12 had some nasty bumps on it but there was snow and ice. The border crossing has no station so you almost did not notice coming to another country. During the last two hours it got dark already and the very last road was a nasty gravel road through the forest. Finally we reached Kittelfjäll Hostel at 21:35. I had received the door code by SMS so it was easy to get to our room. I had to go pay the accommodation to the bar next door and had a beer.

We had a room for 4 persons with two bunk beds. In the hostel there are shared bathrooms and kitchen, ski storage room with dryers. Before going to sleep, we made a dinner in the common kitchen, which was very well equipped.

Kittelfjäll ski resort, located in northern Sweden, began developing as a ski destination in the late 1960s. The resort’s first ski lift was constructed in 1969, which marked the start of its transformation into a popular spot for both alpine and backcountry skiing. Over the years, the area has grown modestly, maintaining its reputation for rugged terrain, deep snow, and a laid-back atmosphere. Today, Kittelfjäll is known for its challenging slopes, scenic mountain views, and strong local community, attracting skiers seeking adventure away from the crowds.

I had always wanted to visit Kittelfjäll, but never had a chance to do before.

7 April 2026, Kittelfjäll

Wake up at 8 and breakfast. Then to the mountains. We bought online day passes, which were 490 SEK = 45 EUR and can be loaded to Axxess card. The hostel is next to one of the T-bar lifts. We did one run on the marked Morgonzoo slope. Then we wanted to skin up to the top. The T-bar lift takes you just above the tree line at 900 meters. From there you can skin up to either of the namesake Kittelfjäll peaks, which are at 1231 and 1217 meters. Between them is a ridge at 1150 m. We decided to go just to the ridge due to snow conditions. It was a sunny day and only few degree below zero, modest wind. Snow was pretty hard packed but was softening in the sun.

Skinning the 250 meters vertical took only about an hour, distance of 2 km as the face was pretty steep. We did the climb twice and between them we had beers at the sunny terrace of the restaurant next to t-bar lift. After the first ascent we had some snacks at the top before skiing down. The snow was decent above tree line, then became quite slushy in the forest, which was full of ravines.

After the second run from the peak we went to ski the runs around the left hand t-bar, that also goes to 900 m, the base being at 600 m. So you get 300 m vertical when skiing with the lifts. From the top of mountain you get almost 600 m. There are about 33 different marked runs though the forest. Then there is also heli skiing available.

The ski resort closed already at 16:00, although there would be daylight many hours more during Easter.

The hostel had a sauna and we had reserved it for ourselves from 18:00. It was a wood burning sauna with proper Finnish kiuas. After the sauna we made dinner and went to sleep early.

8 April 2026, drive to Åre

We had originally planned to ski the morning in Kittelfjäll and after that drive to Åre. As the snow condition was not so great and the drive would be long, we decided to skip the skiing and just drive to Åre so we could reach there by daylight. The drive on route E45 via Vilhelmina was good and mostly you could drive 90 kmh. We stopped at Vilhelmina for lunch at Bergmans Fisk & Vilt. This was a true gem and the food was excellent. The whole menu with appetizer, main course, coffee and desert cake was just 20 EUR. They specialize in fish and game.

We arrived to Åre at 17:20. Then before going to the apartment, did some shopping at Coop and beer from Systembolaget. The apartment had two bedrooms, living room with fully equipped kitchen, bathroom with proper sauna, south-west facing balcony with a view to the mountains and the lake. 5 min walking to the WM8 chair lift.

I had been in Åre many times already in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. But the last time I had been there was 1995 with Camilla’s and Daniel’s mother. It was about the time to visit Åre again.

9 April 2026, Åre day 1

We had hoped to do some off-piste backcountry in Åre as well, as the opportunities there can be amazing at best. Usually there would still be lots of good snow even in early April. But sadly, this year the end of March had been very warm all over Norway and Sweden and there had been no major new snowfalls for two weeks. When we arrived the snow situation was not so good outside runs. It was hard packed, icy and lot of exposed rocks. There was still snow left on the runs though, but some lower runs were closed.

So it was going to be just using lifts and skiing on normal runs then. On this first day it was sunny and no wind. We walked to the WM8 chair lift, rode up and then continued with the Gondola that goes up to 1309 m. The Åreskutan top would be at 1420 m, but not lift goes there. You could walk or skin the remaining 100 m vertical but we did not bother. The chair lift starts at 430 m elevation. Skied down the red runs that were freshly groomed and in good condition. Did the chair + gondola a few times as it gives a nice 800 meters vertical over 6 km distance. Then we decided to try the Kabinbanan cable car. Found out that it is really slow way to get up. The queue is long and the cable car itself is very slow compared to modern ones. As lunch time was approaching we started to look for a restaurant but many were full. Finally we found a good one from the Björnen side, the Kastrullen, where we got a table from the sunny terrace. After lunch did quick exploration of the Björnen lifts and discovered it was all for small kids. Then back to the side of VM8 chair lift. Before the final descent we stopped for beers at the sunny terrace of La Gondola restaurant. We got the last order of beers as they are promptly closing at 16:00.

Now the race course black 56 had been officially closed all day for training, but the training teams were gone, so we slipped under the rope and skied it down as the last run down.

Then walk back to apartment and sauna on. It was really nice to have proper sauna after a long day and then enjoy beers at the sunny balcony. This evening we made dinner ourselves, then watched a film and went sleep early.

10 April 2026, Åre day 2

Last skiing day of the trip. It was still a sunny day, but very windy at top so the gondola was closed all day. The cable car was running though. It had been cold night and yesterday afternoon had been warm making snow slushy. That meant that for the first hour the runs were pretty hard and icy. We did one run down from the WM 8 chair lift, then moved to the Åre village side of the mountain. Then took the cable car up and explored the lifts and runs on the north side, Rödkullen and Ullådalen. Decided to have lunch at Rautjoxa Värdhus where we found a table on the sunny terrace. Then back to skiing the WM 8 chair lift runs a few times and one final beer at La Gondola terrace. The kids called it a day after the run down, but I continued a few more until they closed at 16:30.

Then back to apartment for sauna. Now it was time to pack up and prepare for early check-out next morning as we had the ferry to catch.

We decided to eat dinner at a restaurant on our last evening. After some research booked a table from Fjällpuben at 20:00. It was 10 min walk from our apartment at the core of old Åre center.

11 April 2026, drive to Stockholm, ferry

Wake up at 6:00, the quick breakfast and final loading of the car. We left Åre at 07:00 promptly. We had to make it to the ferry loading that was starting 15:00, and it was a 8 hour drive ahead. We drove with just one bio break along the route E4, which was mostly 90 and 110 kmh. There wasn’t much traffic, sunny day, roads clear and we made it to the harbor in good time.

The ferry left in schedule sailing in fair and sunny weather towards Helsinki. We had dinner at the Italian restaurant at 20:00.

12 April 2026, arrive to Helsinki

Wake up at 09:00. Then me and Daniel went for breakfast at the buffet. Camilla decided to sleep late. The ship arrived in schedule at 10:30 to Helsinki harbor. The trip was now over. We had lot of good skiing on 6 days. Drove 2200 km and visited 3 different ski resorts. The trip went pretty much according to plans, with the exception that I had planned more and deeper powder snow.